Teen Trends Hurt Cosmetics Category

Glamour is out and flip-flops and sweats are in. That’s just one factor contributing to a slow down in the cosmetics category when it comes to attracting teen girls.

Another factor, the growth of extreme music styles like punk and Goth. Girls are coloring their hair red, piercing their bellies and looking for niche brands to meet their needs for extreme makeup colors, according to The Zandl Group, New York City.

As a result, a number of recently introduced teen cosmetics lines have gone the way of blue eye shadow.

“We are not surprised at the demise of many of the recently introduced teen lines,” Irma Zandl said in a statement. “As a rule, so called teen lines appeal only to tweens—the younger 8 to twelve group. Teens are more savvy and more sophisticated than many marketers give them credit for.”

The popularity of the most popular cosmetics brands with teens—13-to-17 year olds—have declined over the past five years. Cover Girl saw a drop from 23% in 1998 to 18% in 2002. Clinique fell off from 17% to 7%. Both brands, which promote clean healthy lines may be slowing for two reasons: Girls who like a clean look may be foregoing makeup all together and the trend to more extreme makeup for the punk girls.

Maintaining brand loyalty can also be a challenge. A much broader product selection is available prompting consumers to try new brands for any one of three reasons: Price, new or better products, or the novelty, The Zandl Group said.

For marketers looking to stay ahead of the curve a number of trends will impact the teen cosmetics market.

First, think technology. Sally Hansen’s new airbrush makeup is a big hit and other technological advances are likely to follow. Second, the punk/Goth movement doesn’t seem to be fading away and teens are looking for dramatic, extreme looks. Finally, the ’80s look may be making its way back into vogue, complete with big hair and lots of lip gloss and blush; A trend adopted by young adults before it moves down to teens.